Kasba Ganpati

Kasba Peth is where Jijau (Chatrapati Shivaji Raje Bhosale’s Mother) settled down with eight other families, after she moved from Vijapur (Karnataka) to Pune.
The locality dates back to the 16th century and is considered to be, one of the oldest ‘Peths’ of Pune. The word ‘Kasba’maybe derived from ‘Kasbah’ an Arabic word which means Fortress.

As a natural extension of any habitation, people needed a place to pray.During that period,people had started worshipping Ganpati (Vighnaharta).

 Amongst these,was the family of Shri.Vinayak Gag Bhatt Thakar, the designated pujari (priest) ofthe Bhosale Gharana. It is believed that Jijau took the initiative in building‘the Kasba Ganpati’ temple. Being the oldest temple in Pune,it has now acquired the status of ‘Gram Devta’. Folklore has it that the idol of the deity is a natural stone formation (Swayambhu) and was found on the banks of the river Mutha. These stories, the dedication and fervent pride of people in keeping traditions and culture alive, make this place so fascinating.

The good news is that the P.M.C. (Pune Municipal Corporation) has undertaken restoration work at Kasba Ganpati.

The glossy ceramic tiles are being replaced and the Gabhara will soon regain its original stone exterior. The Mandap is still breathtaking with its solid teak wood frame, adorned with oil lamps.

 

I think we were just plain lucky to have arrived there on Kartiki Ekadashi, one of the busiest days of the year for priests - with Kakad Aarti, a stream of devotees, newly married couples coming for the blessing of Grama Daivat. . . .It was hardly surprising that Shri.SantoshThakar (the priest) was initially a little suspiciousof us camera-wielding intruders. However being the noble soul that he is, after knowing our intentions, he more than willingly helped us. Such simple gestures build a long lasting bond. We were strangers no more and were even invited for the Kirtan (form of devotional music) that night.

It was already late afternoon and we were exhausted, but this was an irresistible opportunity and we returnedat ten sharp.

Kale Buwa can really give any rock star a run for their money! His demeanor, his expressions and his voice - everything spelt confidence. What transcended after that was sheer bliss. We tried to capture the Bhav (expressions in his songs) on camera, but it was best heard live!

We wound up our gear late at night with mixed emotions.

This family of priests is like any other Maharashtrian family, finely balancing age-old traditions with the demands of modern life. Sure, it is not easy, but amidst the crowds, such people stand out.

Tulshibaug

That day, Tulshibaug was a stroke of luck. We set out with our cameras early morning after finishing the Mandai shoot. Though I have been to this market umpteen times, I’ve never noticed the small details which now are hidden and lost amidst concrete buildings, huge banners and street vendors. The buzz starts early in the morning and continues till late at night; the economical slowdown doesn't seem to have affected this part of the world. Perched in the centre of Tulshibaug is a Ram Mandir which was a pleasant surprise to us. The beautiful texture of the wood was resplendent in the morning sun.

Devotees streamed in as it was one of the most important days of year -Kartiki Ekadashi. But the serenity was undisturbed...I really thanked people for that! Those who have been to Tulshibaug and Ram Mandir have surely seen those utensil shops around both (I am unable to figure out as to why is this THE strategic place to sell kitchen utensils? Can anyone take a shot at this please?) Since we were early we could actually get slightly long shots of the 'Kalas'.

After our photo shoot we were strolling around; that’s when we noticed a signboard 'Nagar Khana' towards the north gate and a gentleman curiously looking at us through the window. We were unsure of what to do next but the greed to know more drove us towards his place.

 We were greeted with a very warm welcome by the Lonkars - a family of musicians and artists carrying the tradition of 'Sanai Chowghada' for five generations from 1762 for every major religious event. We spent a long time chatting with Mr. Suresh Lonkar and his two daughters Dhanashri and Komal who are studying fine arts. We wondered how they managed to keep this tradition alive and sincerely hope they carry it on in future too. It certainly takes lot of effort and swimming against the tide and a kind of stubborn perseverance to do something like this when the returns are negligible or none at all. The Lonkars are such heros who contribute to the rich tradition quietly and are content to do so. Their beautiful smiles say it all.

The discovery of the day was the beautiful tile painting hidden behind 'Vitthal Mandir' where geese reside now. The colors are so fresh and the faces so emotive...this depicts a 'Ram Panchyat' the five Panch being Ram, Laxman, Garuda, Narad and Tumbharu. That was quite a lot for the day wasn't it?

Mahatma Phule Mandai

A beautiful medley of Gothic features with Indian detailing. It has eight wings signifying eight directions. A vegetable market in periphery of shanavar wada is buzzing with activity through the day. The interiors though currently unkept are charming and a treat for architects &  enthusiasts.

But someone please someone remove that UGLY Digital clock from the Facade!