What's Heritage?

Heritage has a lot of connotations - culture, art, structures, people and environs, to name but a few. I wanted to peek into history and satisfy my curiosity on various questions that appeared in my mind from time to time. How did they commute? How did they build such grand structures? Where did they get their inspiration and ideas from? How did they conduct international trade? Why were certain traditions and practices followed? Where did these legends come from? So many more questions pop up. Though documents help one with general direction and facts, they can never present clear cut answers. History in a sense, is a historian’s/ writer’s personal view and hence, is and should always be open to interpretation. It is more charming that way.




We had to start somewhere. We chose physical structures as our first entry point to these myriad questions. And are certainly very glad, as what unfolds slowly is making us hungrier. So what’s next? It may be culture, art, architecture, vegetation, industry, the education system, linguistic and literary development, all these and more!


One did not feel it right to put a boundary right in the beginning, such thoughts on our heritage must evolve. What is now a BLOG will transform into a website, a forum where more people can contribute.


What is the objective? The answer is, none and many. None, since it is still at a very nascent stage and needs infusion time. Many, as we know it has potential to grow beyond its objective!


I urge you all to read, react, partake in this activity and enjoy the experience. Your comments will make this livelier.

Bhaje Leni

Conversation 1:

"Why is it called Stupa?”

"Well, it looks like TOPI you see, CAP, you know CAP? that is why it’s called Stupa."

Conversation 2:

"Now look at this design on the walls , you will see all the gods painted here"

My first reflex was to run for cover! after all an ASI (Archeology Society Of India) guide had just spilled the beans that their knowledge of Indian history & heritage is no better than the tourist! Infact they were more than hilarious.

Well its needless to say, I  was consciously avoiding the guide for rest of the time we spent at Bhaje Leni. The classified story is my team mates and self had a hearty laugh.

Bhaje is very close to Bedse, my earlier blog on Bedse Leni, talks about 'Varsha Vihar', 'Trade Route', Buddhist Bhiku" and other relevant details on Buddhist caves so instead of repeating the same, I thought of writing few lines on Buddhist literature. Buddhist philosophy is a vast and deep subject even to attempt here.

BTW, 'Stupa ' in Sanskrit literally means a mound-like structure containing relics of Buddha and or saints and is the worship place for Buddhists. Most of the old stupas are simple structures devoid of any decorative work. Bedse Leni has importance in architectural design for its wooden arches which have survived the nature for more than 2000years. These are oldest caves as artists and the workers replicated wooden architectural forms since they had not completely mastered stone as building material. Bedse Leni is a beautiful mélange of wood and stone work.

The time 525 B.C to 480 B.C might be considered as the period of activity of Buddha. The Ganges region in north eastern India was the place of his activity, in kingdoms of Magadha (Bihar) and Kosala (Oudh). The Buddhist monks travelled across to propagate the philosophy and teachings of Buddha.

Being the oldest and largest religion (personally I would like to look at it as a way of life than a religion) spread across the world it is been written at different times by different people in different languages.

The 'Tipitaka'- means three pitakas (boxes) as the 'Pali Canon' is known. The oldest literary testimony for the existence of the trinity of Pitakas (pitakattayam) and of Nikayas is found only in ‘Milindapanha’ a work whose first part belongs to the beginning of the first century A.D.The canon of the sacred literature of the Buddhists was composed in Pali, Magadhi and other dialects. Of these the Pali version alone has survived in its entirety. A real canon of sacred texts is probably compiled during third council which took place at the time of King ‘Asoka’ the great patron and follower of the Buddhist community.

Will continue in next blog...

Bedse Leni

Last month marked some very important firsts, which might be responsible for what I do for a large part of my life! An introduction to ancient Indian history through culture, literature and art was one of them.

What seemed at first a really dry and boring subject now fascinates me beyond limits. It is truly like digging for treasure, every time one reads/hears some thing, a fresh perspective of what one knew appears. I can well imagine the high every new discovery must be giving an archeologist.

That preamble was needed to explain my waking up before the crack of dawn on Sunday the 22nd of December! Under normal circumstances, I wouldn't commit such an act, simple!

All of us ‘heritage buffs’ assembled at the pick up point and waited anxiously for the bus to move. More than occasional thoughts of a hot cup of tea adulterated our pure heritage thoughts.

A few no shows and a flat tire did not dampen our spirits. We cruised via the old Pune - Mumbai road towards Malavali.

By now the sun was in its full glory. After a quick breakfast and tea (finally), we set out on foot for one the oldest caves of the Buddhist era - the 'Varsavihara'. These caves are tucked away in one of the Sahyadri ranges inear a small village - Bedse (near Malavali, Pune district).

The caves date back to the 1st century B.C. and according to Yuan Chwang, lie on the old trade route from Nane Ghat to Kalyan. Buddhists monks (Bhikus) travelled around the world propagating the teachings of Buddha. As one of the 'Vinaya' (the disciplines in 'Vinayapitaka'), the monks had to stay away from dwellings and live on 'Bhiksha' (offerings from the villagers).

The monks stayed for 4 months during the monsoons in these Varsha Viharas (literally ‘rain caves’). During this period, they wrote 'Theragatha', 'Therigatha' and meditated.

 

The beautiful sculptures and carvings in these caves or Leni (as it is called in Marathi) indicate that they probably had the patronage of wealthy traders, kings and other important people.

In several places, one can see their names carved next to the sculptures. Legend also has it that these Viharas were used by traders to store their valuables while they were away.The caves could also have been used as a Dharamshala (guesthouse) for travellers.

Bedse has two caves, a 'Chaitya' which hosts a stupa, and a 'Vihar' which has small rooms for the Bhiku. One marvels at the vision of the artist/s and the planning of this miracle. Identifying/ choosing a huge piece of rock just right for carving, finding one that faced the sun so that there was ample natural light, find it next to a water source, carving it top down and finally creating magic through those amazingly proportionate sculptures! One wonders whether they had any scope for mistakes.

For two hours, we tried to capture this beauty on camera. With all technological advances available today, attempting to recreate the same magic seemed a hard task, I think it goes beyond tools. Vision, grit and perseverance all have to come together. I will always remain in as awe of their immaculate artistry.

Here I would like to share what we experienced. Enjoy!