Modi aka Bomblya Ganapati

Gods have an identity, address and even a character. Modi Ganpati, Khunya Muralidhar, Chimnya Maruti, Dagadu Sheth Ganpati, Dulya Maruti , Kasaba Ganpati  to name a few, right here in our very own Pune. 

At Pune Heritage, we are always interested in stories. Legend has it that Modi Ganpati temple got its name since the temple idol was found in a farm next to Khushrooshet Modi’s garden (how it landed there we do not know). A lesser known name for this charming temple is Bomblya Ganpati (which sounds both fishy and loud)! The story goes that this name got associated with it due to fisher folk selling Bombil (a fish also known as Bombay Duck) nearby. In colloquial Marathi Bomblya also means - one who speaks loudly.

This temple from the Peshwa era dates back to before 1811. Bhat (a Maharashtrian surname) from Ratnagiri, later settled in Pune and built the temple. The idol is thought to be 200 years old. The Gabhara (sanctum) and the Kalas (dome) were built first. The wooden Mandap (structure resting on wooden pillars) was built later in 1868. The wooden carving is exquisite and gives a very warm feel to the temple. 

The temple has lodging arrangements for the Gurav (priest’s) family who looks after the rituals and temple administration.  With its ongoing activities going beyond rituals, it looked like a very close knit community. During the two hours we spent there, there was a continuous stream of devotees who seem to be well acquainted with each other.  It was heartening to see that sometimes religion binds! 

 

The walls are adorned with beautiful paintings of Ganesha in different avatars (forms). These are inked beautifully by a poet:

Satyayugi Digbahugahan

Mayurvahanshrotayu

Siddhidata Shrigananath

Taya tyachi Saha Haath

Dvaparimatra Char Haath

Rakta Raanga Angakanti

Kaliyugi Bhuja Dona

Dhaval Anga Himahuni

Puravi Sarvavar Devun

Rakshitase ha Sarva Kali

Do visit this temple to see a fine example of typical Peshwa Mandir architecture. The dome is built in the Devali style (small niches created at multiple levels along the dome).  These niches are built in the Meghadambari style (an umbrella shaped roof standing on four pillars where the idol is housed). A similar one made in brass is used for the Ganpati idol in the sanctum. It is said the idol is Swayambhu (natural form) and not sculpted.

  

St. Matthew’s Church

Happiness is contagious. A very warm and welcoming smile from Pastor Pillai, the current caretaker of St. Matthew’s(a Marathi church) instantly put us in a very cheerful mood. His desire to open up his church to the world (which is rather contrary to many religious establishments) and make us privy to its sanctum was heartening. 

This Eastern Orthodox Catholic Church was built in 1893 and has a Basilican layout.

It was built using simple and elegant Spanish architecture, in particular Visigothic art (Visigoths were an East Germanic tribe, which were one of the migrants to Hispania (modern Spain and Portugal during 415 BC).

The peculiarities of Visigothic architecture visible here which might be of interest to architecture buffs are:i. Horseshoe (rounded) arches used for doors, windows (Spanish windows) and hallways. ii. A rectangular exterior Apse. iii. Walls made with Ashlar (dressed stone work with rectangular cubical blocks).

 

The entrance has a Celtic Cross, which combines a cross with a ring surrounding the intersection on the Bell tower. It is a variation of the High Cross – which originated around the time of the Celtic revival in England. This seems to indicate an Irish connection in the past. 

The original bell which is made of PanchaDhatu (five metals) and weighs 40 kilos now lies in the storeroom since it has developed a small crack. Queen Victoria got these bells made to gift to the churches built during her time. A similar bell is at PanchHaud Church in Pune.

Right behind the Celtic Cross is an Eastern cross used by the Eastern Orthodox Catholic Church.It is mounted on a fabricated structure and looks like a later addition.

 Sweeping and Cleaning for Good Friday was in progress and the congregation were pouring in to lend a hand (the camaraderie was admirable).

The roof rests on wooden beams; the teak was sourced from Shillong and is in top condition till date.

I was curious about the organ situated at the entrance. It is a Mason and Hamlin 1858 model and is urgently awaiting repairs (anybody capable of repairing this vintage model, please step forward, the church authorities have been searching for such a person for a long time).

Iranichai (tea) from Café Diamond Queen, brought to us in a thermos flask by one of the faithful, rounded off with Naaz Bakery Cake, concluded our visit to St. Matthew’s.

We left the vastu (premises) with an unanswered question -why is this church also called St. Matthew’s Tamil Church? Actually it does not make a bit of a difference to our research and heritage work. Such details are best left alone!