Bedse Leni

Last month marked some very important firsts, which might be responsible for what I do for a large part of my life! An introduction to ancient Indian history through culture, literature and art was one of them.

What seemed at first a really dry and boring subject now fascinates me beyond limits. It is truly like digging for treasure, every time one reads/hears some thing, a fresh perspective of what one knew appears. I can well imagine the high every new discovery must be giving an archeologist.

That preamble was needed to explain my waking up before the crack of dawn on Sunday the 22nd of December! Under normal circumstances, I wouldn't commit such an act, simple!

All of us ‘heritage buffs’ assembled at the pick up point and waited anxiously for the bus to move. More than occasional thoughts of a hot cup of tea adulterated our pure heritage thoughts.

A few no shows and a flat tire did not dampen our spirits. We cruised via the old Pune - Mumbai road towards Malavali.

By now the sun was in its full glory. After a quick breakfast and tea (finally), we set out on foot for one the oldest caves of the Buddhist era - the 'Varsavihara'. These caves are tucked away in one of the Sahyadri ranges inear a small village - Bedse (near Malavali, Pune district).

The caves date back to the 1st century B.C. and according to Yuan Chwang, lie on the old trade route from Nane Ghat to Kalyan. Buddhists monks (Bhikus) travelled around the world propagating the teachings of Buddha. As one of the 'Vinaya' (the disciplines in 'Vinayapitaka'), the monks had to stay away from dwellings and live on 'Bhiksha' (offerings from the villagers).

The monks stayed for 4 months during the monsoons in these Varsha Viharas (literally ‘rain caves’). During this period, they wrote 'Theragatha', 'Therigatha' and meditated.

 

The beautiful sculptures and carvings in these caves or Leni (as it is called in Marathi) indicate that they probably had the patronage of wealthy traders, kings and other important people.

In several places, one can see their names carved next to the sculptures. Legend also has it that these Viharas were used by traders to store their valuables while they were away.The caves could also have been used as a Dharamshala (guesthouse) for travellers.

Bedse has two caves, a 'Chaitya' which hosts a stupa, and a 'Vihar' which has small rooms for the Bhiku. One marvels at the vision of the artist/s and the planning of this miracle. Identifying/ choosing a huge piece of rock just right for carving, finding one that faced the sun so that there was ample natural light, find it next to a water source, carving it top down and finally creating magic through those amazingly proportionate sculptures! One wonders whether they had any scope for mistakes.

For two hours, we tried to capture this beauty on camera. With all technological advances available today, attempting to recreate the same magic seemed a hard task, I think it goes beyond tools. Vision, grit and perseverance all have to come together. I will always remain in as awe of their immaculate artistry.

Here I would like to share what we experienced. Enjoy!

Kasba Ganpati

Kasba Peth is where Jijau (Chatrapati Shivaji Raje Bhosale’s Mother) settled down with eight other families, after she moved from Vijapur (Karnataka) to Pune.
The locality dates back to the 16th century and is considered to be, one of the oldest ‘Peths’ of Pune. The word ‘Kasba’maybe derived from ‘Kasbah’ an Arabic word which means Fortress.

As a natural extension of any habitation, people needed a place to pray.During that period,people had started worshipping Ganpati (Vighnaharta).

 Amongst these,was the family of Shri.Vinayak Gag Bhatt Thakar, the designated pujari (priest) ofthe Bhosale Gharana. It is believed that Jijau took the initiative in building‘the Kasba Ganpati’ temple. Being the oldest temple in Pune,it has now acquired the status of ‘Gram Devta’. Folklore has it that the idol of the deity is a natural stone formation (Swayambhu) and was found on the banks of the river Mutha. These stories, the dedication and fervent pride of people in keeping traditions and culture alive, make this place so fascinating.

The good news is that the P.M.C. (Pune Municipal Corporation) has undertaken restoration work at Kasba Ganpati.

The glossy ceramic tiles are being replaced and the Gabhara will soon regain its original stone exterior. The Mandap is still breathtaking with its solid teak wood frame, adorned with oil lamps.

 

I think we were just plain lucky to have arrived there on Kartiki Ekadashi, one of the busiest days of the year for priests - with Kakad Aarti, a stream of devotees, newly married couples coming for the blessing of Grama Daivat. . . .It was hardly surprising that Shri.SantoshThakar (the priest) was initially a little suspiciousof us camera-wielding intruders. However being the noble soul that he is, after knowing our intentions, he more than willingly helped us. Such simple gestures build a long lasting bond. We were strangers no more and were even invited for the Kirtan (form of devotional music) that night.

It was already late afternoon and we were exhausted, but this was an irresistible opportunity and we returnedat ten sharp.

Kale Buwa can really give any rock star a run for their money! His demeanor, his expressions and his voice - everything spelt confidence. What transcended after that was sheer bliss. We tried to capture the Bhav (expressions in his songs) on camera, but it was best heard live!

We wound up our gear late at night with mixed emotions.

This family of priests is like any other Maharashtrian family, finely balancing age-old traditions with the demands of modern life. Sure, it is not easy, but amidst the crowds, such people stand out.