Bhuleshwar temple - really knocks you out of your senses!

Its like, all along one expects a ‘Second Grade’, and on the day of the results, the mark-card says ‘First Grade’! My Bhuleshwar trip can be summed up like that.

‘Nilakantheshwar Buwa’ maneuvered past the dark steps clutching ‘Sapnee’, a tiny kitten in one hand and his saffron dhoti in the other. He muttered something, maybe about the electricity or lack of it. The feel of cold stone felt nice on bare feet. My self- volunteered local guide then got busy with his daily rituals and left me with rest of my team. My eyes adjusted to the light, and the darkness revealed a Ganesha statue, decorative niches, floral motifs and many more details that were exquisitely carved. I suspect I made a rather poor show of my excitement, pointing in all directions and ordering ‘A’ to take pictures! With the expression of a yogi he looked at me and smiled. ‘A’ and ‘V’ (the photography component of our team) ignored me and continued doing their own number.

As I heard Dr. Shrikant Pradhan speak, my other sensory organs kicked in. Through his knowledge he brought alive the structures, and suddenly the motionless sculptures started telling us their story.

Bhuleshwar - many people know it for its Shiva temple and flock to it in huge numbers on Maha-Shivratri. Around 55km from Pune by road, it stands tall on a hillock that might have been inhabited at various times by noblemen from the 13th century through the 17th century. One can still see the ruins of a fort/gadhi around it. The first level, carved entirely out of stone, is around 30 ft tall and dates back to the 13th century during the period of the illustrious Yadavas and the great Marathi saint ‘Dyaneshwara’. Though the direct relation of this temple and Sant Dyaneshwara is unknown, his name is often mentioned by locals. The second level made of lime stone is built by the Peshwas in the 17th century. This distinctive Minaret structure is influenced by Mohammedan architecture. Legend has it, that it was built to look like a mosque to stop further vandalisation by Budh-Shikans (those who destroy sculptures/statues).

Everybody who has visited this temple and is interested in stone carved sculptures would agree that this is one of finest structures of the early medieval era in the Pune region. Our favorites are: the big Nandi in the Mandap (usually a square or rectangular space with four pillars in front of the idol);

a solitary sculpture of ‘Kali’ standing over a dead body, with snakes as her ornaments and a scorpion in her belly (which shows she is full of venom); and the danseuse (so well proportioned).

Of whatever I saw that day; I have personal observations between two levels built in different centuries 400 years apart. The artisans of the 13th century have depicted various scenes from the Mahabharata like Bhishmapitamaha lying on a Sharapanjri (bed of fine dried grass) surrounded by the Pandava Putra, or Krishna charioting Arjuna on the battlefield and many more. These stories are depicted one level above the base ‘Gaja-Thar’ (as elephants balancing the whole structure on their heads) which is simple allegory.

The Mandap has a beautifully carved ‘Nandi’ facing the Shivalingam. The pillars and doorframes are adorned with sculptures of Vaishnava (one of the sects of Hinduism that worships Lord Vishnu) and Dvarpals (door guardians).

The ‘Mandovar’ (side walls of the temple) are adorned with Apsaras (the danseuses in heaven) in various dance poses offering their prayers to God. Each of the four pillars of the Mandap has four Gandharvas facing four directions, supporting the structure with their hands.

The second level unlike other temples of that era does not follow the ‘Bhumij style’ (typical of temples in Maharashtra). Instead, it has a dome-like structure with minarets around. The periphery of the temple joining the two levels has sculptures of ‘Shakti Devata’. One is surprised to see a female form of Ganesha – the ‘Ganeshi’ with Kuberi and Kaumari. The ‘Mandovar’ has Apsaras in various dance poses offering their prayers to God. The representation of Gandharvas supporting the ‘Antaral’ - the highest level of the temple with their hands is truly a fantastic representation. It is worth noting that the lowest level depicts stories of mortals and the Gabhara where God resides.

Each panel here is worth doing a thesis on, each sculpture deserves the care it needs for coming generations to experience its magic. After spending hours inside the Bhuleshwar temple, I had to be physically whisked out for our next destination.

I give a standing ovation to the sculptors and artisans for this marvel!