Vishrambaghwada - Pride of Pune

This is one place I would love to move into!

You’re looking at me with an extremely disdainful smile aren’t you? 

Softly and slowly it engulfed me with its charm. Please go there when you have lots of time on your hands, or you might miss all the beauty that grows on you over a period of time. This Vastu, is packed with an enormous wealth of historical relevance. Be it art and craftsmanship, architecture, luxury, lifestyle, education, revolution or administration, it remains at the fountainhead of Pune’s Heritage.

History has various connotations, the power-struggles between royalties and dynasties, the invasions, the wars, the massacres, the rebellion, the rise and fall, the art odyssey, the literary journey, the amalgamation of various cultures and religions and beliefs. No wonder it is so mesmerizing. It makes one crave for more…history never ends.

 We did catch the morning sun and much more, like, the rare pleasure of having the busiest junction of Pune all to ourselves. A relaxed pace of life certainly changes the way one looks at the world; suddenly one notices beauty around us. I would have easily missed a soulful voice in the daily hubbub of life but this one was just waiting to be heard. I wondered, what made him happy and smile so much? His worldly possessions were in one Zola (cloth bag) and he wasn’t yearning for more…or was he? I do not know, but his calling was certainly different than ours. So looking at him we smiled and smiled some more.

Yes, Vishrambaghwada is lavish, tasteful and inspired by nature. The architect has used animal forms as corbels and flower and leaves motifs on pillars and the roof. The wooden carving is exquisite, not even for one moment does it disturb the eye; it is that symmetrical and free flowing.

 

At the entrance, two dangerously lovable creatures with droopy eyes (what an understated show of power) stand guard. 

 

These are referred as Flying Lions in write ups; to me the creatures looked like a combination of a Makar (crocodile), a Simha (Lion) and Garuda (Eagle). The mane and paws of a lion, the face and scales of a crocodile and the wings of an eagle . . . what strong creatures these are. All the figures, including the monkey on the Meghadambari are curiously Buddhist and Hindu Symbols. The peacock is a Vahan (vehicle) of Kartikeya or Murugan (Lord Shiva’s son) and Saraswati (Goddess of Knowledge) and the parrot is a Vahan (vehicle) of Kamadeva (God of Love).

It is evident that Bajirao II had very fine tastes and was artistically inclined; he had specially called in the artists and craftsman from Gujarat. Every single pillar is carved meticulously with different motifs — like banana flowers and cypress leaves. It surely must have taken 8 years to build a house spread over 39,000 sq. ft! Its name is derived from: Vishram (relaxation), Baug (garden) and Wada (homestead). 

We walked through the courtyards and corridors, imagining how the place must have been inhabited 200 years ago. The images and impressions created by the historians created a very vivid picture, wow that was a golden era for the Peshwas. The interiors, the doors and windows are of classic Maratha style, warm and welcoming. Any artist would love to capture it on her canvas. 

The Peshwas enjoyed this abode for 9 years from 1808. They eventually vacated the Wada after the British took over Pune. Since then Vishrambaghwada has housed various administrative offices, schools and institutes. Even now it still continues to do so. For instance in 1821, a Sanskrit school was started here in a move to bringing education to the masses; later the Government Engineering College, Deccan College, Pune University and Agricultural University also enjoyed its patronage. 

Unfortunately, in 1871, the eastern wing of the Wada was entirely destroyed in a fire, the British rebuilt it and this resulted in fusion of Western and Indian architectural styles in one structure. In 1930, the Pune Municipal Corporation (PMC) bought the property from the British government and until 1959 it operated out of Vishrambaghwada. The good news is that the PMC has undertaken the restoration of Wada and is executing it very well. Enjoy your heritage; pay Vishrambaghwada a visit.